More concern here, as the left-hand lobes looked good and the right-hand lobes looked abused. But gently turning the camshaft (and cam chain and crankshaft) finally allowed it to slide out.
#HOW TO INSTALL SPARK ADVANCE ON A HONDA CL350 SCRAMBLER HOW TO#
Which held puzzle number two: figuring out how to slide the camshaft out of the head. From here, four 6mm bolts released the cam-chain tensioner and eight 6mm screws allowed removing the two cam holders (one on each side), and then the rocker shafts and rockers, and two 6mm bolts set the camshaft free. And it was a quick process: remove eight 8mm acorn nuts, and the cylinder head cover and breather plate came off, revealing the camshaft and rocker arms. Truth be told, removing the cylinder head was the one of the most fun moments of this entire CL rescue. To easily facilitate the removal of the engine, a makeshift lift was rigged up using two ladders, a ramp, tie-downs and a ratchet hoist. I moved the rolling chassis to a corner of the garage for later cleaning. A few steps later, the engine was on a car engine dolly repurposed to securely hold the Honda unit. And I have to say, it worked great in taking the stress off the engine bolts, allowing their easy removal, and then finessing the engine - now safely hanging from the steel cable and tie-downs - out of the frame. That seemed very un-Soichiro Honda like, so I rigged up a makeshift lift using two aluminum ladders, an aluminum loading ramp, some tie-downs and a ratchet hoist. One method is to drop the bike on its right side, remove the last engine bolt or two, and then wiggle it until it falls out of the frame. Who knows how Honda put the motors in so successfully, but watching YouTube videos showed how privateers remove them now. But like grizzly claw marks on a pine, the Honda front downtube scratches bore evidence that this motor had been out before. You don’t want to get it stuck, nor scratch the frame nor engine cases. It’s a peculiar dance - the motor has to rock backwards and then swing right, navigating through the frame opening like Robert Ballard guiding an ROV into the Titanic on a video screen. Which is not nearly so much fun as, say, removing a Yamaha Enduro or Hodaka engine, in that the Honda mill is a big, heavy lump that surely was installed in the frame using witchcraft and levitation during the Nixon era. Removing a Honda 350 twin cylinder head requires first removing the engine from the frame. That was a pretty enjoyable and straightforward hour, and I made sure to stash take-off parts and fasteners in separate boxes and Ziploc bags, labeled with a marker, to simplify and quicken reassembly. The first step was removing everything attached to the engine - or more completely everything attached to everything attached to the engine - including side covers, air cleaners and housings, carburetors, fuel lines, fuel tank and seat, exhaust system, footpeg assembly, and all wiring running from the under-seat area along the frame to the engine. And so, I set out to find out, and to make it right. With one rocker arm loose, I hoped to find only a bent valve, or at worst a broken one. When we left off the previous article, friends Amanda and Napper and son Derek had helped pinpoint the engine troubles as a complete lack of compression in the right-hand cylinder. And it might even, eventually, turn a buck. The process would create “rolling art,” I promised. Doing so will “make us feel good,” I suggested. If you read the July-August 2020 issue of Motorcycle Classics, you might have seen an article entitled Big Bang Theory, in which this author adopted a C元50 with a seriously hurt engine for the mechanical challenge it presented, but also as a way to encourage readers to adopt and nurse back to health broken bikes. Ah yes, scratched and weathered records - and scramblers.
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